Hiking the West Highland Way
Walking the West Highland Way had been on my list for years – a chance to slow down, move through nature on foot, and see a wilder side of Scotland. Over eight days, we hiked nearly 100 miles from the edge of Glasgow to Fort William, passing lochs, moors, mountains, and more sheep than I could count. I kept notes each day to capture the changing scenery, weather, moods, and memorable moments. Here’s how it went, from blisters to breathtaking views.
My goal in sharing this travel diary is not only to capture the memories, but also to inspire anyone curious about doing the hike themselves. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just adventure-curious, this trail gives you a real taste of Scotland’s dramatic nature, warm local culture, and the simple rhythm of walking from village to village.
May 22: Edinburgh Arrival
We landed in Edinburgh around 9:30 AM and were on the city tram straight from the airport in no time – it couldn’t have been easier. After dropping our bags at The Inn on the Mile, right on the iconic Royal Mile, we set off to explore.
Our first stop was Edinburgh Castle, but without tickets (sold out for the day), we admired it from the outside and snapped some photos. We had a light lunch and drinks at Deacon Brodie’s Tavern – fun fact: it inspired Jekyll and Hyde! Then we wandered down to Princes Street Gardens for some castle views from below. The park was full of locals soaking up the sun, and we couldn’t believe our luck with the warm, sunny weather.
We climbed Calton Hill next for panoramic views, then hiked up Arthur’s Seat. On the way down, we met a couple – she was 71 and he was 83 – still hiking strong. Goals!
After a well-earned ice cream and more wandering, we checked into our hotel, took a quick shower and nap, and then headed out for dinner at Ikigai Ramen (delicious!). We wrapped up the night with arcade games and pinball at Mortal Kocktails, followed by live music and drinks at The Scotsman’s Lounge. A perfect first day.
May 23: Glasgow Day Trip
After breakfast, we caught a bus to Glasgow – an easy and scenic one-hour ride. We met up with the Keenans and their friends, the Flaritys, and explored the city together. After a classic fish & chips lunch, we stopped by MacSorley’s for a drink, wandered through the city, and ended up doing a spontaneous whiskey tasting at a lively pub. The locals were incredibly friendly, even with our group of nine!
Dinner was at The Citizen – a bit upscale, but absolutely delicious. We were all pretty wiped out by then, so we called it an early night.
May 24: Day in Glasgow
We took an Uber out to Glengoyne Distillery for a tour and tasting – one of the few whiskeys I actually liked from the day before! Getting back was another story. Taxis were impossible to come by, and after an hour of waiting, we caught a bus to Milngavie for lunch and a little exploring. From there, we trained it back to Glasgow and stocked up on bug spray and midge nets for the hike.
Dinner at Ardnamurchan was a cozy Scottish delight. On our walk back, we heard music spilling from a lively Irish pub – packed with football fans still celebrating despite the Celtics’ loss. Just one pint and we were off to bed, ready to start the West Highland Way.
May 25: Milngavie to Drymen
The day started with a sauna and cold plunge – so rejuvenating. We took the train to Milngavie, the official start of the West Highland Way. Sunshine, mild temps, and beautiful scenery kicked off our hike perfectly.
The trail passed through rolling hills and forested paths, with a stop at a trailside pub that doubled as a mini petting zoo – pygmy goats, rabbits, Shetland ponies, the works! We refueled just in time to wait out a short downpour.
Along the way, we passed a couple of “honesty boxes” offering drinks and snacks. After 13 miles, we rolled into Drymen and checked into Buchanan Arms. A sauna and hot tub awaited before dinner and live music at The Drymen Inn. Early bedtime – sunrise is around 4:30 AM!
May 26: Drymen to Rowardennan
We hiked through rain and wind most of the day, but the trail was gorgeous. We took the high road over Conic Hill – windy but rewarding, with our first views of Loch Lomond. From there, the trail dropped into woodlands and ran alongside the loch, with waterfalls everywhere.
It was our longest day so far – 16.5 miles – and we stayed at a hostel right on the loch. Some of us jumped in for a (very cold) dip! The girls shared a cozy room with lake views, and we ended the day relaxing in the lounge with drinks.
May 27: Rowardennan to Ardlui
Midges were everywhere in the morning – bug nets became essential. The trail stayed along the loch, with steep climbs and rocky descents that felt straight out of Hawaii’s ridge hikes. Gorgeous waterfalls and lake views throughout the day.
At the head of the loch, we took a water taxi across to Ardlui. The hotel was full, so we stayed in “camping pods” that were... cute in theory, poorly ventilated in reality. Our group had grown to 11 with the addition of Herman and Collin. We’ve been told multiple times we’re the biggest group anyone’s seen on the trail!
Dinner and drinks at the hotel were great, but sleeping in the hot, stuffy pods? Not so much. I bailed from the top bunk to sleep on the floor in search of cooler air. Between that and the snoring, it was a rough night.
May 28: Ardlui to Tyndrum
Woke up to more midges and little sleep. But after a quick boat ride back across the loch, today turned out to be my favorite hike so far. Open fields surrounded by mountains, cascading waterfalls, and a peaceful picnic lunch (finally, no midges!).
The trail reminded me of the Faroe Islands. Fun fact: the Scottish Highlands are part of the same ancient mountain range as the Appalachians and the Atlas Mountains! Still no sightings of Highland cows though, and I’m on a mission.
After 14.5 miles, we reached Tyndrum, showered up at the Tyndrum Inn, and played some pool before dinner. I finally had my long-awaited steak pie!
May 29: Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy
Started the day with a rainy hike. We had a very amusing river crossing (lots of laughter involved) and accidentally looped back to our own hotel – classic hiker moment!
The hike itself was short (7.5 miles), but the rain was relentless. Waterfalls were everywhere – pouring down hillsides we didn’t even know had streams. The sheep stared at us like we were the crazy ones.
We arrived at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel soaked to the bone. The staff were wonderful – helpful, warm, and quick with hot drinks. We met a solo German hiker named Lukas who was camping on his own while waiting for his friend to catch up. After dinner and drinks, I spotted a red deer with antlers across the field. The Highlands magic continues.
May 30: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse
This hike was definitely my favorite so far.
It rained again in the morning, but not too heavily, so we set out after breakfast around 9:15. The meal was delicious, and we were well-fueled for the trail. We crossed the Bridge of Orchy – not the most scenic landmark – but the scenery quickly picked up as we climbed into the hills. Once at the top, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding highlands.
We passed through moody, wide-open landscapes with mountains rising all around us. Despite the intermittent rain and a few strong winds, the trail felt otherworldly and wild. At one point we hiked along an old military road – long, straight, and seemingly endless – cutting through dramatic scenery that felt like something out of a fantasy novel.
Around midday, the rain stopped and the skies started to clear, giving us sweeping views of the vast valley ahead. We reached the Glencoe Ski Resort area and knew we were getting close to Kingshouse. It was such a good feeling to see the Kingshouse Hotel in the distance after another long day – about 12 miles in total.
The Kingshouse Hotel was absolutely beautiful. It’s set right at the foot of Buachaille Etive Mòr, one of Scotland’s most photographed mountains. The views from the hotel were unreal – jagged peaks rising out of the valley with mist swirling around them. After checking in and drying out, we settled into the cozy lounge for drinks and some downtime. Dinner was great, and the vibe at the hotel was super welcoming. The bar was full of hikers from all over swapping trail stories.
We saw a herd of red deer right outside our window as the sun began to set. Easily one of the most magical moments of the trip.
May 31: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
We left the Kingshouse Hotel in high spirits around 9:30 AM. The skies were grey, but the rain held off for most of the day. The walk began gently, winding along the river with dramatic views of Buachaille Etive Mòr behind us. One of the highlights of the trip came early in the day – spotting a wild red deer stag just off the path, standing perfectly still and watching us as we walked by.
Then came the Devil’s Staircase. The climb wasn’t as intimidating as the name suggests, but it was definitely a challenge – a series of zigzags that took us steadily upward. The higher we climbed, the more impressive the views became. At the top, we were rewarded with a sweeping panorama of Glencoe and beyond. It felt like standing on the roof of the Highlands.
The descent into Kinlochleven was long and tough on the knees – steep in some sections and a bit slippery from earlier rain. The last stretch into town was forested, and the trees were a welcome change of scenery after the open moorland.
We arrived around 3 PM, soggy but happy, and checked into our accommodation for the night. Kinlochleven is a small town nestled between hills, with an old hydroelectric plant and lots of character. We found a cozy pub for dinner and relaxed, knowing tomorrow would be our last day on the trail.
June 1: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Our final day! We set off just after 9 AM with a mix of excitement and nostalgia. The trail climbed steeply out of Kinlochleven at first, giving us one last long ascent. We paused often to look back at the village tucked into the valley – it looked so peaceful from above.
The weather was kind, with a bit of mist in the morning that eventually lifted to reveal Ben Nevis in the distance. The path followed a beautiful old military road through the Lairigmor pass, winding between tall hills and quiet glens. It was peaceful and remote – no signs of civilization for miles.
As we descended, the landscape shifted again. Forests returned, and the trail became more populated with day hikers and mountain bikers. We knew we were nearing Fort William when we began to see signs of town life – roads, houses, the occasional car.
Finally, after one last gentle descent, we arrived in Fort William. The official end of the West Highland Way is marked by a statue of a weary hiker in the town center, and we took the obligatory photo there, proud and content. We’d walked nearly 100 miles through some of the most stunning landscapes in Scotland.
We celebrated with pizza, drinks, and a warm bed – grateful for the experience, the challenge, and the beauty of the Highlands.
We walked through sunshine, wind, and sideways rain — and loved every second of it.
Reflection
Looking back, the West Highland Way gave me more than just sore legs and muddy boots. It gave me silence, space to think, and a deep appreciation for the rhythm of walking. There’s something grounding about waking up, packing up, and moving forward each day, no matter the weather. The landscape felt timeless – wild in places, gentle in others – and the people I met along the way added warmth to even the coldest mornings. I’d do it again in a heartbeat, though maybe next time I’ll pack fewer snacks and more dry socks.
Itinerary Breakdown:
Day 1
Arrive in Edinburgh
Day 2
Travel day: Edinburgh to Glasgow
Day 3
Day in Glasgow, prep for hike
Day 4
Train to Milngavie → Hike Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen (12 miles)
Day 5
Hike Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan (16 miles)
Day 6
Hike Day 3: Rowardennan to Ardlui (11 miles)
Day 7
Hike Day 4: Ardlui to Tyndrum (14 miles)
Day 8
Hike Day 5: Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy (7 miles)
Day 9
Hike Day 6: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse (11 miles)
Day 10
Hike Day 7: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (10 miles)
Day 11
Hike Day 8: Kinlochleven to Fort William (16 miles)
Day 12
Travel day: Fort William to Edinburgh
Need help planning your own West Highland Way adventure? I offer custom itinerary support and hiking logistics – get in touch here to start planning!
“Wherever I wander, wherever I rove; the hills of the Highlands forever I love.”
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